So... What is it?
Beer, aside from dogs its definitely mans best friend, but what happens when a man drinks too much of the frothy goodness... Beer belly! So how do we solve this? we could drink less... (yeah right!) or we can reduce the carbs! Thats where this recipe comes in, a classic, crisp style Aussie lager, BUT with only 6 grams of carbs per serve!
The classic Australian Lager is traditionally an amber-hued beer with a balanced malt profile and slightly bitter hop flavour, typically brewed with Pride of Ringwood hops or its descendants. However with the modern craft movement new world styles of Aussie lager are being made with much fruitier and fresher hop profiles, leaning into the citrusy and tropical flavours found in a lot of new world New Zealand pilsners!
What's ours like?
This Low carb Aussie lager comes in at a very sessionable 4.5% and very easy drinking with a golden hue, light malty body and a very crisp finish! The hop profile is well in balance providing enough bitterness to add to the crispness of the finish, without overpowering the palate. The hops and yeast esters provide a light tropical aroma and flavour of citrus, passionfruit and general fruit-salad making this lager an absolute thirst quencher for a man who loves to grab an ice cold beer on a hot day, but doesn't want to grow his belly!
You can use this Link to calculate your final carbs in your beer after Fermentation! (full credit to andrewmaixner over on the homebrewing sub-Reddit!) - Just make a copy of this excel spreadsheet and whack in your numbers!
Batch Size & Stats
- 19L / 5 gal finished beer
- 26L (6.8 gal) wort
- Starting gravity – 1.037
- Final gravity 1.0024
- ABV – 4.54%
What ingredients?
Water
With sparging
- 15L (3.9 gal) strike water approx. 64°C (147°F)
- 21L (5.5 gal) sparge water at 78°C (172°F)
Without sparging
- 30L (7.9 gal) strike water approx. 64°C (147°F)
Malts
Total Grain Bill 5kg (11 4lb)
- Barret Burston Pilsner malt – 4.1kg (9 lb)
ENZYMES!
- Glucoamylase - 10mL (0.34 oz) - Add during mash step
Hops & whirlfloc tablets
Pride of Ringwood
- 5g (0.17 oz) - 60 minutes left in the boil
- 15g (0.53 oz) - 15 minutes left in the boil
Galaxy
- 15g (0.53 oz) - 15 minutes left in the boil
Topaz
- 15g (0.53 oz) - 15 minutes left in the boil
Whirlfloc
- 1.5g (0.052 oz) / 2 tablets – 15 minutes left in the boil
Yeast options & fermentation temperatures
- SafLager™ S‑23 – ferment at 14°C (57°F) 23g (0.41 oz) / (1 packets) - Fermented under 10 psi pressure (not necessary but a great option)
- Saflager W34-70 – ferment at 14°C (57°F) 23g (0.41 oz) / (1 packets) - Fermented under 10 psi pressure (not necessary but a great option)
Step by step process
Step 1 – Milling
- Mill grains to medium crush (set mill rollers to a gap of approx. 1.00mm / 0.039 inches (credit card width)
- Just keep in mind roller gap settings are not universal so as you brew more batches you will find the ideal crush size for your setup
- Alternatively if you don’t have a grain mill you can order your grains crushed from most homebrew stores, both online and in person
Step 2 – Mashing
Mash for 60 minutes at 64°C (147°F) with 15L (3.9 gal) of strike water
- Set your strike water to a few degrees above the target mash temperature (you can use the calculator in our website for this)
- ensure you mix in the grains thoroughly with a mash paddle to prevent dough balls from forming (big spoons, spatulas or whisks will also work)
- its easier to mash the grains and prevent dough balls if you add a little grain at a time, mix, add more grain and repeat until all the grains are mixed
- after you have mashed in your grains, add your enzymes! 10mL (0.34 oz) of glucoamylase
if you don’t have a mash tun with heating then ensure after you have finished mixing the grains in to insulate your mash tun (thick neoprene or heavy blankets both work well)
Step 3 (optional) – Sparging
- if your setup has the capability to sparge then do so with 21L (5.5 gal) sparge water at 78°C (172°F)
- if you are not sparging and using a BIAB (brew in a bag) method then remove grains from mash tun and twist and squeeze the bag to get as much liquid out of the grains as possible
- as you start sparging (or straining your BIAB bag) begin raising the temperature of your wort to a boil
Step 4 – Boiling
- once your wort begins to boil start a timer for a 60-minute boil and add your bittering hops, 5g (0.17 oz) of Pride of Ringwood
- at 15 minutes left in the boil add 1 whirlfloc tablet (OR granulated whirlfloc 0.7g (0.025 oz)
- at 15 minutes left in the boil add 15g (0.53 oz) each of galaxy, Pride of Ringwood and Topaz
Step 5 – Whirlpooling / cooling
- After 60 mins of boil turn off your heat source start cooling
- Once you’ve reached yeast pitching temperature take an original gravity reading of your wort
Step 6 – Yeast Pitching
- It is best to make a yeast starter before beginning your brew day (ideally 1 day before) to ensure your yeast are as active and healthy as possible before pitching, but not completely necessary – you could also just rehydrate yeast 30 minutes before pitching.
- Wort Aeration (Optional) if you have a paint mixer give your wort a quick blitz before pitching yeast to help add more dissolved oxygen into the wort to help the yeast have a healthier kick start into fermentation
- Now add your tincture of Vanilla extract! (or you can wait till end of fermentation if you prefer)
- Pitch yeast in wort a degree or two higher than the target fermentation temperature to help yeast take off more aggressively
- To make a yeast starter you can use either:
- DME (dry malt extract) at a ratio of approx. 100g per 1L water (3.5 oz per 33 fluid ounces) for gravity of approx. 1.040
- some unfermented wort kept cold and sanitary from a previous brew day
- 70g of table sugar per 1L water (2.5 oz per 33 fluid ounces) – however, it is best to use malt sugar (wort / DME) whenever possible to reduce the chance of shocking the yeast with a different food source from starter to wort pitching
- To rehydrate yeast
- Add yeast to approx. 10 times as much room temperature water as the weight of the yeast e.g. 10g yeast in 100 ml water (0.35 oz yeast in 3.5 fluid ounces water)
Step 7 – Fermentation
- Allow yeast to ferment over the next two weeks (aprox)
- If you have a temperature-controlled system keep the fermenter temperature to the recommended fermentation temperature for each yeast strain (stated in the yeast ingredients section above)
- It's important to note that fermentation times will vary based on your circumstances like temperature, amount of yeast pitched, the healthiness of yeast, the gravity of the wort, pH, etc. so don’t stress be patient and know that these times are just a rough guide
- If you have temp control then when there are 2 days left of fermentation raise the temperature by 2 degrees for a diacetyl rest (once gravity reaches roughly 1.005) & gravity is the same 3 days in a row move onto cold crashing and adding gelatin! (Dont worry cold crashing & gelatin are both optional steps to help clarify your beer)
Step 8 (optional) – Cold crashing & Gelatin
- begin cold crashing your fermenter (bring the temperature of your fermenter down to as close to 0°C (32°F) as possible, for 2 days to a week depending on how patient you are, and add 1-2 teaspoons of gelatin dissolved in boiling water and allowed to cool a bit to your fermenter
- If you don’t have a temp-controlled fermenter, you can cold crash by putting your fermenter in a fridge or temp-controlled chest freezer
- After you have finished cold crashing it's time to keg/bottle your beer! If you are bottling your beer from the fermenter uncarbonated, remember to add about 5-7 grams (0.17 - 0.24 oz) of priming sugar to your bottles to carbonate your beer.
